Checking out the contemporary artwork at Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, a modern glassy museum where you can commune with Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.
Bicycling, jogging, rollerblading or just walking along the paths at Parque 3 de Febrero. 
Eating your way through the dozens of ethnic restaurants in 
Visiting Museo Evita to get the scoop on Argentina’s most famous international woman.
Shopping the designer clothing boutiques and other fun shops in Palermo Viejo.Explore: Palermo
Most of Palermo’s museums are located near its green parks. They’re spread out over this large neighborhood, so give yourself plenty of time to see them. Museo Evita, Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo and Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (Malba) all have pleasant cafe-restaurants with outdoor areas, great for taking a relaxing lunch or snack break.
Palermo Viejo, the city’s most trendsetting neighborhood, is roughly bounded by Santa Fe, Scalabrini Ortiz, Córdoba and Dorrego. It’s further divided into Palermo Hollywood (north of the train tracks) and Palermo Soho (south of the tracks), both full of old buildings, leafy sidewalks and cobbled streets. These areas have BA’s best cutting-edge restaurants, along with trendy bars and nightclubs; Plaza Serrano has dozens of sidewalk tables and heaves with crowds on weekends.
Buenos Aires’ most famous fashion designers have opened up dozens of boutiques here, and there are many fancy housewares stores and other themed shops. It’s not the cheapest place to shop, but likely the most fun – wear comfortable shoes as you’ll be walking a lot.
Another popular but much smaller neighborhood in Palermo is further north in Las Cañitas; it occupies a wedge of blocks close to the polo grounds. It’s mostly a residential area on the border with Belgrano and named after the fields of sugar cane that used to grow here. The only sweet things here now, however, are the luscious desserts at the dozens of restaurants on Av Báez, the main business street. Just a few blocks long, it’s densely packed with eateries, bars, cafes and even a club or two, and it positively buzzes at night.
Local Life
» Shopping Trendy locals dress up to be seen fashionably shopping Palermo’s fancy boutiques.
» Nightlife Young, hip porteños wait until after midnight to congregate at bars, and after 2am head out to the clubs.
» Sunny Weekends Local families grab their strollers and head to the Jardín Zoológico (Click here) for a day of animal-watching.
Getting There & Away
» Bus Take buses 29, 59, 64 and 152 from the Microcentro to Plaza Italia; bus 39 from Congreso to Palermo Viejo; bus 111 from the Microcentro to Palermo Viejo.
» Subte Línea D is the fastest way to Palermo’s Plaza Italia área
MUSEO DE ARTE LATINOAMERICANO DE BUENOS AIRES (MALBA)
Sparkling inside its glass and cement walls is this airy modern-art museum, one of BA’s finest. It contains some of the best works by classic and contemporary Argentine artists, such as Xul Solar and Antonio Berni, plus some pieces by other Latin American painters like Mexican duo Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.
DON’T MISS…
» Andy Warhol’s photography, especially if it includes abstract artist Marta Minujín (an Argentine conceptual artist).
» One of Diego Rivera’s early cubist works, Retrato de Ramón Gómez de la Serna (Portrait of Ramón Gómez de la Serna, 1915).
PRACTICALITIES
» Malba
» MAP
» 
4808-6500
4808-6500
» Av Figueroa Alcorta 3415
» admission AR$40, Wed AR$20
» 
noon-8pm Thu-Mon, to 9pm Wed
noon-8pm Thu-Mon, to 9pm Wed
Christened in 2001, the building is home to Eduardo F Costantini’s private art collection. The millionaire and philanthropist gathered over 200 of Latin America’s best artworks from the 20th century. Well-known Argentine painters represented here include Linoenea Spilimbergo, Jorge de la Vega, Emilio Pettoruti and Guillermo Kuitca. If they’re on display, check out figurative artist Antonio Berni’s Nuevo Realismo (social realism) oeuvres. Many of these artists confront social issues in their works.
Among the collection is the work of Tarsila do Amaral, one of Brazil’s most famous painters; look for her Abaporu (1928), one of Brazil’s most important paintings and for which Costantini paid US$1.4 million in 1995. Colombian Fernando Botero depicts human figures in cartoonish, overly plump sizes, as in his Los Viudos (1968). And Frida Kahlo’s charming Self-Portrait with Monkey and Parrot (1942) cost Costantini nearly US$3.2 million.
Excellent temporary exhibits are shown in several halls, and there are occasional kids’ programs and a cinema that screens art-house films. A terrace, bookstore, gift shop and cafe-restaurant (expensive but great for people-watching) complete the picture.
PARQUE 3 DE FEBRERO
Also known as Bosques de Palermo, this sweeping green space abounds with small lakes and paddleboats, pretty gazebos, a monument to literary greats called El Jardín de los Poetas (the Garden of Poets) and the pleasant RosedalMAPGOOGLE MAP(Rose Garden). On weekends it’s filled with families picnicking, friends playing fútbol, lovers smooching and strolling, and outdoor enthusiasts jogging and bicycling.
DON’T MISS…
» Walking, bicycling or roller-blading around the rose garden and nearby lakes on a warm sunny weekend, when the ring road is closed to vehicular traffic and outdoor rentals abound.
PRACTICALITIES
» MAP
» cnr Avs del Libertador & de la Infanta Isabel
» 
10, 34, 130
10, 34, 130
The area around Parque 3 de Febrero was originally the private retreat of 19th-century dictator Juan Manuel de Rosas and became public parkland only after his fall from power – on February 3, 1852. Ironically for Rosas, the man who overthrew him – former ally Justo José de Urquiza – sits on his mount in a mammoth equestrian monument at the corner of Avs Sarmiento and Presidente Figueroa Alcorta.
In 1875, Parque 3 de Febrero was inaugurated by Argentina’s president, Nicolas Avellaneda. It was designed by Charles Thays, a French botanist and landscape architect who also worked on Plaza de Mayo, Barracas de Belgrano and Parque Lezama. Thays used London’s Hyde Park and Paris’ Bois de Boulogne as inspiration for his work here.
The park’s most interesting destinations include the Jardín Japonés (Click here), the Jardín Zoológico (Click here), the Jardín Botánico Carlos ThaysMAPGOOGLE MAP(Botanical Gardens;dawn-dusk)F and the Planetario Galileo GalileiMAPGOOGLE MAP(4771-9393; www.planetario.gov.ar; cnr Avs Sarmiento & Belisario Roldán). More exclusive are the Campo Argentino de Polo (Click here) and the Hipódromo Argentino (the racetrack). Just south of the zoo, and a major landmark in Palermo, is Plaza Italia, a half-moon-shaped traffic island and important transport hub.
dawn-dusk)F and the Planetario Galileo GalileiMAPGOOGLE MAP(4771-9393; www.planetario.gov.ar; cnr Avs Sarmiento & Belisario Roldán). More exclusive are the Campo Argentino de Polo (Click here) and the Hipódromo Argentino (the racetrack). Just south of the zoo, and a major landmark in Palermo, is Plaza Italia, a half-moon-shaped traffic island and important transport hub.
( 4804-4922; www.jardinjapones.org.ar; cnr Avs Casares & Berro; admission AR$24, under 12yr free; 10am-6pm) First opened in 1967 and then donated to the city of Buenos Aires in 1979 (on the centenary of the arrival of Argentina’s first Japanese immigrants), Jardín Japonés is one of the capital’s best-kept gardens – and makes a wonderfully peaceful rest stop. Inside there’s a Japanese restaurant along with lovely ponds filled with koi and spanned by pretty bridges. Japanese culture can be experienced through occasional exhibitions and workshops on ikebana, haiku, origami, taiko (Japanese drumming) and other events.
4804-4922; www.jardinjapones.org.ar; cnr Avs Casares & Berro; admission AR$24, under 12yr free; 10am-6pm) First opened in 1967 and then donated to the city of Buenos Aires in 1979 (on the centenary of the arrival of Argentina’s first Japanese immigrants), Jardín Japonés is one of the capital’s best-kept gardens – and makes a wonderfully peaceful rest stop. Inside there’s a Japanese restaurant along with lovely ponds filled with koi and spanned by pretty bridges. Japanese culture can be experienced through occasional exhibitions and workshops on ikebana, haiku, origami, taiko (Japanese drumming) and other events.
( 4774-9452; www.museosivori.org.ar; Av de la Infanta Isabel 555; admission AR$5, Wed & Sat free; noon-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; 10, 34) Named for an Italo-Argentine painter who studied in Europe, this modern museum of Argentine art has open spaces allowing frequent and diverse exhibitions. Sívori’s Parisian works reflect European themes, but later works returned to Argentine motifs, mainly associated with rural life on the Pampas. However most works on display are by other well-known Argentine artists, such as Benito Quinquela Martín, Antonio Berni and Fernando Fader. There’s a sculpture garden and slick cafe on the premises, and occasional theater, concerts, courses and workshops are offered.
4774-9452; www.museosivori.org.ar; Av de la Infanta Isabel 555; admission AR$5, Wed & Sat free; noon-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; 10, 34) Named for an Italo-Argentine painter who studied in Europe, this modern museum of Argentine art has open spaces allowing frequent and diverse exhibitions. Sívori’s Parisian works reflect European themes, but later works returned to Argentine motifs, mainly associated with rural life on the Pampas. However most works on display are by other well-known Argentine artists, such as Benito Quinquela Martín, Antonio Berni and Fernando Fader. There’s a sculpture garden and slick cafe on the premises, and occasional theater, concerts, courses and workshops are offered.
( 4807-0306; www.museoevita.org; Lafinur 2988; local/foreigner AR$10/20; 11am-7pm Tue-Sun) Everybody who’s anybody in Argentina has their own museum, and Eva Perón (1919–52) is no exception. Museo Evita immortalizes the Argentine heroine with plenty of videos, historical photos, books, old posters and newspaper headlines. However, the prize memorabilia has to be her wardrobe: dresses, shoes, handbags, hats and blouses lie proudly behind glass, forever pressed and pristine. Even Evita’s old wallets and perfumes are on display. Our favorite is a picture of her kicking a soccer ball – in heels.
4807-0306; www.museoevita.org; Lafinur 2988; local/foreigner AR$10/20; 11am-7pm Tue-Sun) Everybody who’s anybody in Argentina has their own museum, and Eva Perón (1919–52) is no exception. Museo Evita immortalizes the Argentine heroine with plenty of videos, historical photos, books, old posters and newspaper headlines. However, the prize memorabilia has to be her wardrobe: dresses, shoes, handbags, hats and blouses lie proudly behind glass, forever pressed and pristine. Even Evita’s old wallets and perfumes are on display. Our favorite is a picture of her kicking a soccer ball – in heels.
Head around to the corner if you need refreshment – attached to the museum is the pleasant Museo Evita Restaurant (Click here) with wonderfully leafy patio, perfect for relaxing on a warm day.
( 4803-2384; www.museohernandez.buenosaires.gob.ar; Av del Libertador 2373; admission AR$5, Sun free; 1-6:30pm Wed-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) This museum was being remodelled at research time, but the emphasis here is on both traditional and contemporary arts and crafts, mostly from Argentina. Expect to see intricate gaucho-related silverwork like knives and mate sets, Mapuche textiles like ponchos and folk crafts from the country’s northern regions. The back halls hold changing exhibits.
4803-2384; www.museohernandez.buenosaires.gob.ar; Av del Libertador 2373; admission AR$5, Sun free; 1-6:30pm Wed-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) This museum was being remodelled at research time, but the emphasis here is on both traditional and contemporary arts and crafts, mostly from Argentina. Expect to see intricate gaucho-related silverwork like knives and mate sets, Mapuche textiles like ponchos and folk crafts from the country’s northern regions. The back halls hold changing exhibits.
( 4824-3302; www.xulsolar.org.ar; Laprida 1212; admission AR$20; noon-8pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat, closed Feb) Xul Solar was a painter, inventor, poet and friend of Jorge Luis Borges. This museum (located in his old mansion) showcases over 80 of his unique and colorful yet subdued paintings. Solar’s Klee-esque style includes fantastically themed, almost cartoonish figures placed in surreal cubist landscapes. It’s great stuff, and bizarre enough to put him in a class of his own. Tours in Spanish are available Tuesday and Thursday at 4pm and Saturday at 3:30pm.
4824-3302; www.xulsolar.org.ar; Laprida 1212; admission AR$20; noon-8pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat, closed Feb) Xul Solar was a painter, inventor, poet and friend of Jorge Luis Borges. This museum (located in his old mansion) showcases over 80 of his unique and colorful yet subdued paintings. Solar’s Klee-esque style includes fantastically themed, almost cartoonish figures placed in surreal cubist landscapes. It’s great stuff, and bizarre enough to put him in a class of his own. Tours in Spanish are available Tuesday and Thursday at 4pm and Saturday at 3:30pm.
( 4824-4039; Charcas 2837; 
Línea D Aguero, Pueyrredón) Walk under the facade, modeled after the Casa de Independencia in Tucumán, and behold a quaint courtyard surrounded by European and Incan architectural motifs. Famous Argentine educator and writer Ricardo Rojas lived here from 1929 to 1957, and in his office wrote his renowned work El Santo de la Espada (1933). An old dining room with period furniture also gives an idea of the past. Phone for opening hours, as the museum was closed for remodeling at research time.
4824-4039; Charcas 2837; Línea D Aguero, Pueyrredón) Walk under the facade, modeled after the Casa de Independencia in Tucumán, and behold a quaint courtyard surrounded by European and Incan architectural motifs. Famous Argentine educator and writer Ricardo Rojas lived here from 1929 to 1957, and in his office wrote his renowned work El Santo de la Espada (1933). An old dining room with period furniture also gives an idea of the past. Phone for opening hours, as the museum was closed for remodeling at research time.
BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL LIBRARY
( 4808-6000; www.bn.gov.ar; Agüero 2502; 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat & Sun; 59, 60) F Prominent Argentine and Latin American literary figures, such as Ernesto Sábato, have lectured here, and other events include workshops, concerts and cultural activities. Tours in English are offered on Monday, Tuesday and Thursday at 3pm. Bring photo ID and be ready to fill out a form to enter.
4808-6000; www.bn.gov.ar; Agüero 2502; 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat & Sun; 59, 60) F Prominent Argentine and Latin American literary figures, such as Ernesto Sábato, have lectured here, and other events include workshops, concerts and cultural activities. Tours in English are offered on Monday, Tuesday and Thursday at 3pm. Bring photo ID and be ready to fill out a form to enter.
( 4899-0201; www.ccislamicoreyfahd.org.ar; Av Int Bullrich 55) This landmark mosque, built by Saudis on land donated by former president Carlos Menem, is southeast of Las Cañitas. Free tours in Spanish are offered on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at noon (bring your passport, dress conservatively and enter via Av Int Bullrich).
4899-0201; www.ccislamicoreyfahd.org.ar; Av Int Bullrich 55) This landmark mosque, built by Saudis on land donated by former president Carlos Menem, is southeast of Las Cañitas. Free tours in Spanish are offered on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at noon (bring your passport, dress conservatively and enter via Av Int Bullrich).WALKING THE DOG
Buenos Aires supports a legion of paseaperros (professional dog walkers), who can be seen with up to a dozen canines on leashes. They’ll stroll through areas like Palermo’s parks, Recoleta and even downtown with a variety of dogs ranging from scruffy mongrels to expensive purebreds, each of their tails happily a-waggin’.
Paseaperros are employed by busy apartment dwellers who either can’t or won’t take the time to exercise their animals properly – and are willing to pay up to AR$200 per month for this unique walking service. Since most paseaperros don’t pay taxes, they can really ‘clean up’ in the city – figuratively speaking.
Every day thousands of canines deposit tons (almost literally) of excrement in the streets and parks of the capital. You’ll be aware of this fact soon after stepping onto the streets of Buenos Aires. Cleaning up after one’s pooch is already a city requirement, but enforcement is nil, so be very careful where you tread – you’ll see dog piles of all textures and sizes lining almost every sidewalk. One to especially step clear of is the author-named dulce de leche variety.
Still, the capital’s leashed packs are a remarkably orderly and always entertaining sight, and make great snapshots to bring back home.
EATING
Palermo Viejo is at the heart of innovative cuisine in Buenos Aires. Dozens of upmarket restaurants serve creative cuisine in a contemporary setting, but it’s important to be discerning – a new eatery opens every week, and while quality is generally high, only a few places are truly special.
Apart from the high-end parrillas where fine steaks and expensive wines rule, Palermo chefs often take inspiration from different ethnic cuisines. You’ll find elements of Japanese, Indian, Vietnamese, Brazilian, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Greek and even Norwegian food throughout the neighborhood’s dining scene. Just remember that most restaurants offer an Argentine approach to these international styles of cooking: don’t expect spicy flavors, for example, because the locals can’t stomach it.
Another sub-neighborhood of Palermo with exceptional eating is Las Cañitas, not far from Palermo Viejo. Traffic jams up here on the weekends, when hordes of diners descend on the few blocks of Av Báez where most of the area’s restaurants and bars are concentrated.
MAP GOOGLE MAP
( 4778-9614; www.ouioui.com.ar; Nicaragua 6068; mains AR$40-70; 8am-8pm Tue-Sun) Pain au chocolat and shabby chic? Oui. This charming and popular French-style cafe produces the goods – dark coffee, buttery croissants and jars of tangy lemonade – and boasts a small and cozy interior. Choose also from creative salads, gourmet sandwiches and luscious pastries. Its annex, Almacén Oui OuiMAPGOOGLE MAP(cnr Dorrego & Nicaragua;8am-9pm Tue-Sun), is on the same block and stays open an hour later.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4778-9614; www.ouioui.com.ar; Nicaragua 6068; mains AR$40-70; 8am-8pm Tue-Sun) Pain au chocolat and shabby chic? Oui. This charming and popular French-style cafe produces the goods – dark coffee, buttery croissants and jars of tangy lemonade – and boasts a small and cozy interior. Choose also from creative salads, gourmet sandwiches and luscious pastries. Its annex, Almacén Oui OuiMAPGOOGLE MAP(cnr Dorrego & Nicaragua;8am-9pm Tue-Sun), is on the same block and stays open an hour later.
( 4773-2781; Uriarte 1980; mains AR$40-75; 8:30pm-midnight Tue, 12:30-3:30pm & 8:30pm-midnight Wed-Sat, 1-3:30pm Sun) A world away from its trendy neighbors, this classic joint holds on to tradition and offers a breath of fresh air from all those overpriced, overhip restaurants in Palermo. Funky art adorns the walls including amateur owl paintings (lechuza means ‘owl’). Meats and pastas are served in abundant portions, but don’t miss the desserts like chocolate mousse and tiramisu.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4773-2781; Uriarte 1980; mains AR$40-75; 8:30pm-midnight Tue, 12:30-3:30pm & 8:30pm-midnight Wed-Sat, 1-3:30pm Sun) A world away from its trendy neighbors, this classic joint holds on to tradition and offers a breath of fresh air from all those overpriced, overhip restaurants in Palermo. Funky art adorns the walls including amateur owl paintings (lechuza means ‘owl’). Meats and pastas are served in abundant portions, but don’t miss the desserts like chocolate mousse and tiramisu.
( 4776-4252; Arévalo 1478; mains AR$40; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; 
) The menu is hardly extensive at this tiny bohemian eatery, but everything is good and very healthy, and the portions are generous. There’s homemade yogurt, daily sandwich specials, hearty salads, vegetable tarts and more. Exceptional coffee and lemonade too.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4776-4252; Arévalo 1478; mains AR$40; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; ) The menu is hardly extensive at this tiny bohemian eatery, but everything is good and very healthy, and the portions are generous. There’s homemade yogurt, daily sandwich specials, hearty salads, vegetable tarts and more. Exceptional coffee and lemonade too.
( 4899-0094; Arce 306; mains AR$40-75; noon-4pm & 8pm-midnight) Good food and bargain prices keep this popular corner eatery packed. Choose from typical parrilla cuts or traditional Argentine foods like locro and cazuela (meat and veggie stews). Negatives include uncomfortable chairs, spotty service and the owner’s large dog roaming the dining room.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4899-0094; Arce 306; mains AR$40-75; noon-4pm & 8pm-midnight) Good food and bargain prices keep this popular corner eatery packed. Choose from typical parrilla cuts or traditional Argentine foods like locro and cazuela (meat and veggie stews). Negatives include uncomfortable chairs, spotty service and the owner’s large dog roaming the dining room.
( 4822-5415; Beruti 2602; mains AR$90-140; noon-midnight Mon-Sat) Famed chef Martin Rebaudino brings a contemporary Spanish flair to seafood (the fish is shipped daily from Mar del Plata) and serves up melt-in-your-mouth cochinillo (suckling pig) dishes that are worth writing home about. Desserts are homemade, as are the breads. A fantastic wine list and cordial service make Oviedo a fine-dining experience you won’t mind shelling out for.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4822-5415; Beruti 2602; mains AR$90-140; noon-midnight Mon-Sat) Famed chef Martin Rebaudino brings a contemporary Spanish flair to seafood (the fish is shipped daily from Mar del Plata) and serves up melt-in-your-mouth cochinillo (suckling pig) dishes that are worth writing home about. Desserts are homemade, as are the breads. A fantastic wine list and cordial service make Oviedo a fine-dining experience you won’t mind shelling out for.
( 4832-6058; Guatemala 4699; mains AR$80-120; noon-4pm & 7:30pm-1am) Classy service and a great wine list add an upscale bent to this traditional corner steakhouse. The bife de chorizo (sirloin steak) is the main attraction here, but the exposed-brick interior, original floor tiles and cowhide tablecloths enhance the sensory experience, and the gourmet salads – served with a flourish by the uber-professional wait staff – are a treat.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4832-6058; Guatemala 4699; mains AR$80-120; noon-4pm & 7:30pm-1am) Classy service and a great wine list add an upscale bent to this traditional corner steakhouse. The bife de chorizo (sirloin steak) is the main attraction here, but the exposed-brick interior, original floor tiles and cowhide tablecloths enhance the sensory experience, and the gourmet salads – served with a flourish by the uber-professional wait staff – are a treat.
( 4775-0625; Thames 2296; mains AR$80-90; 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun) At this simple and unpretentious yet excellent restaurant, Chef Rodrigo Castilla cooks up a changing rainbow of eclectic dishes such as grilled venison or rabbit stuffed with cherries and pistachios. Those with meeker stomachs can choose the asparagus and mushroom risotto or any of the homemade pastas. The chalkboard menu on the wall adds to the casual atmosphere.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4775-0625; Thames 2296; mains AR$80-90; 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun) At this simple and unpretentious yet excellent restaurant, Chef Rodrigo Castilla cooks up a changing rainbow of eclectic dishes such as grilled venison or rabbit stuffed with cherries and pistachios. Those with meeker stomachs can choose the asparagus and mushroom risotto or any of the homemade pastas. The chalkboard menu on the wall adds to the casual atmosphere.
( 4775-0337; Costa Rica 5886; pizza AR$65-95; 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat) Possibly the city’s best Naples-style pizzas, made with quality ingredients and finished in a hot wood-fired oven so the thin crusts char beautifully. Try the Margherita, with tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil and olive oil; the Champignon & Prosciutto comes with mushrooms, ham and goat cheese. Also bakes up excellent calzoni.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4775-0337; Costa Rica 5886; pizza AR$65-95; 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat) Possibly the city’s best Naples-style pizzas, made with quality ingredients and finished in a hot wood-fired oven so the thin crusts char beautifully. Try the Margherita, with tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil and olive oil; the Champignon & Prosciutto comes with mushrooms, ham and goat cheese. Also bakes up excellent calzoni.
( 4554-0802; www.astorbistro.com; Ciudad de la Paz 353; mains AR$80-90; 12:30-3:30pm Mon-Wed, 12:30-3:30pm & 8:30pm-midnight Thu & Fri, 8:30pm-midnight Sat) French-trained Chef Antonio Soriano presides over the kitchen at this contemporary restaurant in a residential neighborhood. The few main dishes change weekly but are always delicious and beautifully presented, accented with edible flowers. If you order the tasting menu (AR$149), bring your appetite – it’s nine courses. To watch your meals being created, sit at the bar, which offers a view of the open kitchen.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4554-0802; www.astorbistro.com; Ciudad de la Paz 353; mains AR$80-90; 12:30-3:30pm Mon-Wed, 12:30-3:30pm & 8:30pm-midnight Thu & Fri, 8:30pm-midnight Sat) French-trained Chef Antonio Soriano presides over the kitchen at this contemporary restaurant in a residential neighborhood. The few main dishes change weekly but are always delicious and beautifully presented, accented with edible flowers. If you order the tasting menu (AR$149), bring your appetite – it’s nine courses. To watch your meals being created, sit at the bar, which offers a view of the open kitchen.
( 4776-3777; Guatemala 5602; mains AR$105-135; noon-3:15pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) Sudestada’s well-earned reputation comes from its beautifully prepared curries, stir-fries and noodle dishes, all inspired by the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Singapore. Don’t forgo an exotic cocktail or delicious lychee licuado (milkshake). Note that if you order something spicy, it’s actually spicy. The popular set-lunch special is great value.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4776-3777; Guatemala 5602; mains AR$105-135; noon-3:15pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) Sudestada’s well-earned reputation comes from its beautifully prepared curries, stir-fries and noodle dishes, all inspired by the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Singapore. Don’t forgo an exotic cocktail or delicious lychee licuado (milkshake). Note that if you order something spicy, it’s actually spicy. The popular set-lunch special is great value.
( 4831-4979; www.crizia.com.ar; Gorriti 5143; mains AR$90-135; 7pm-1am) One of BA’s best seafood restaurants. Start with a half-dozen oysters, then follow with the grilled Camembert over porcini mushrooms and seared red tuna in lime vinaigrette. End with the semifreddo of ginger and fresh mango. Chef Gabriel Oggero will make yours a night to remember.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4831-4979; www.crizia.com.ar; Gorriti 5143; mains AR$90-135; 7pm-1am) One of BA’s best seafood restaurants. Start with a half-dozen oysters, then follow with the grilled Camembert over porcini mushrooms and seared red tuna in lime vinaigrette. End with the semifreddo of ginger and fresh mango. Chef Gabriel Oggero will make yours a night to remember.
( 4776-7677; Gorriti 5870; mains AR$105-125; noon-midnight Tue-Sat, 10:30am-midnight Sun) With its hip, relaxed vibe, too-cool crowd and dramatic central fireplace, Olsen could easily be located in the frosty climes of Scandinavia. Chef German Martitegui’s dishes are limited but inspired, and the vodka selection – over 60 – is superlative. Luxuriate with an exotic cocktail in the lovely front garden, or try the popular Sunday brunch. Limited menu between lunch and dinner.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4776-7677; Gorriti 5870; mains AR$105-125; noon-midnight Tue-Sat, 10:30am-midnight Sun) With its hip, relaxed vibe, too-cool crowd and dramatic central fireplace, Olsen could easily be located in the frosty climes of Scandinavia. Chef German Martitegui’s dishes are limited but inspired, and the vodka selection – over 60 – is superlative. Luxuriate with an exotic cocktail in the lovely front garden, or try the popular Sunday brunch. Limited menu between lunch and dinner.
( 4771-4255; www.parrillamiranda.com; Costa Rica 5602; mains AR$70-125; 8am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Fashionable Miranda is the parrilla of choice for those looking for both style and substance. It’s a pleasant modern steakhouse with concrete walls, high ceilings and rustic wooden furniture, but high-quality grilled beef is the main attraction here – try the popular ojo de bife. If you score a sidewalk table on a warm day, life doesn’t get much better.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4771-4255; www.parrillamiranda.com; Costa Rica 5602; mains AR$70-125; 8am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Fashionable Miranda is the parrilla of choice for those looking for both style and substance. It’s a pleasant modern steakhouse with concrete walls, high ceilings and rustic wooden furniture, but high-quality grilled beef is the main attraction here – try the popular ojo de bife. If you score a sidewalk table on a warm day, life doesn’t get much better.
( 4776-4247; www.ilballo.tv; Gorriti 5737; mains AR$50-100; noon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat) This artsy, eclectic trattoria attracts artists, musicians and tourists, among others, with its delicious homemade pastas. Try the popular caramel diburata appetizer (a soft cheese), then go for the fusilles escarparo with garlic, green onion and parmesan in a tomato sauce. Cute little patio for warm days; reserve at night. Its annex is two blocks away at Gorriti 5950.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4776-4247; www.ilballo.tv; Gorriti 5737; mains AR$50-100; noon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat) This artsy, eclectic trattoria attracts artists, musicians and tourists, among others, with its delicious homemade pastas. Try the popular caramel diburata appetizer (a soft cheese), then go for the fusilles escarparo with garlic, green onion and parmesan in a tomato sauce. Cute little patio for warm days; reserve at night. Its annex is two blocks away at Gorriti 5950.
( 4800-1599; www.museoevitaresto.com.ar; JM Gutierrez 3926; mains AR$70-100; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun) This restaurant’s charming tiled courtyard may be the city’s prettiest spot for an alfresco lunch, and the cuisine is thoroughly sophisticated, too. Locals and visitors alike come for the gourmet sandwiches, steaks and salads; the lunch specials are good too.
4800-1599; www.museoevitaresto.com.ar; JM Gutierrez 3926; mains AR$70-100; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun) This restaurant’s charming tiled courtyard may be the city’s prettiest spot for an alfresco lunch, and the cuisine is thoroughly sophisticated, too. Locals and visitors alike come for the gourmet sandwiches, steaks and salads; the lunch specials are good too.
( 4774-4191; AJ Carranza 1875; mains AR$75-120; 8:30-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) With exotic spices and foreign ingredients, Paul Jean Azema goes where few local chefs have gone before. His eclectic menu takes inspiration from his diverse travels – expect dishes like lamb cooked Mauritius-style, rabbit in chardonnay wine sauce and mango and curry duck – and Azema himself occasionally makes an appearance in the dining room.
4774-4191; AJ Carranza 1875; mains AR$75-120; 8:30-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) With exotic spices and foreign ingredients, Paul Jean Azema goes where few local chefs have gone before. His eclectic menu takes inspiration from his diverse travels – expect dishes like lamb cooked Mauritius-style, rabbit in chardonnay wine sauce and mango and curry duck – and Azema himself occasionally makes an appearance in the dining room.
( 3220-6820; www.hgrestaurant.com.ar; Soler 5862; mains AR$120-135, set menu AR$260, wine pairings AR$160 extra; 7:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 8am-midnight Sat & Sun) Located in the Fierro Hotel, this exceptional restaurant offers highly sophisticated, Spanish-influenced dishes created by chef Hernán Gipponi. Order the seven-course tasting menu for the full experience – it’s pricey but worth it. Set menu on weekday lunches runs AR$150; the six-course weekend brunch costs AR$175 and is a must. On Monday nights, everyone sits at one communal table. Reserve ahead.
3220-6820; www.hgrestaurant.com.ar; Soler 5862; mains AR$120-135, set menu AR$260, wine pairings AR$160 extra; 7:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 8am-midnight Sat & Sun) Located in the Fierro Hotel, this exceptional restaurant offers highly sophisticated, Spanish-influenced dishes created by chef Hernán Gipponi. Order the seven-course tasting menu for the full experience – it’s pricey but worth it. Set menu on weekday lunches runs AR$150; the six-course weekend brunch costs AR$175 and is a must. On Monday nights, everyone sits at one communal table. Reserve ahead.
( 4831-7002; Cabrera 5099; mains AR$115-150; 12:30-4:30pm & 8:30pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 12:30pm-1am Sun) Hugely popular for grilling up BA’s most sublime meats. Steaks come in 200g or 400g sizes and arrives with heaps of little complimentary side dishes. Come at 7pm for ‘happy hour,’ when everything is 40% off – just make sure you get here early enough to score a table. There’s an annex at Cabrera 5127; expect a long wait at both locations.
4831-7002; Cabrera 5099; mains AR$115-150; 12:30-4:30pm & 8:30pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 12:30pm-1am Sun) Hugely popular for grilling up BA’s most sublime meats. Steaks come in 200g or 400g sizes and arrives with heaps of little complimentary side dishes. Come at 7pm for ‘happy hour,’ when everything is 40% off – just make sure you get here early enough to score a table. There’s an annex at Cabrera 5127; expect a long wait at both locations.
( 4772-2230; www.unik.pro; Soler 5132; mains AR$135-190; 8:30pm-midnight Mon, 12:30-3pm & 8:30pm-midnight Tue-Sat) For a splurge night out, you can’t do much better than Unik. Start with an appetizer of roasted beets with goat cheese and walnut-truffle vinaigrette (AR$90), then move on to the main courses: rabbit with eggplant purée, suckling pig with grilled apples in Dijon mustard sauce or Patagonian lamb with pickled figs and a tagine sauce. Unik indeed.
4772-2230; www.unik.pro; Soler 5132; mains AR$135-190; 8:30pm-midnight Mon, 12:30-3pm & 8:30pm-midnight Tue-Sat) For a splurge night out, you can’t do much better than Unik. Start with an appetizer of roasted beets with goat cheese and walnut-truffle vinaigrette (AR$90), then move on to the main courses: rabbit with eggplant purée, suckling pig with grilled apples in Dijon mustard sauce or Patagonian lamb with pickled figs and a tagine sauce. Unik indeed.
( 4775-7050; www.green-bamboo.com.ar; Costa Rica 5802; mains AR$115-160; 8:30pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat) This sultry Vietnamese eatery offers just a small selection of dishes, but all are well prepared and flavorful. Sample things like seafood curry, marinated sirloin in lemongrass and ‘traditional’ pho (well, Argentine-style – so don’t expect much tradition). The atmosphere is dim and romantic, with a few low tables, and the tropical cocktails are excellent. Reserve on weekends.
4775-7050; www.green-bamboo.com.ar; Costa Rica 5802; mains AR$115-160; 8:30pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat) This sultry Vietnamese eatery offers just a small selection of dishes, but all are well prepared and flavorful. Sample things like seafood curry, marinated sirloin in lemongrass and ‘traditional’ pho (well, Argentine-style – so don’t expect much tradition). The atmosphere is dim and romantic, with a few low tables, and the tropical cocktails are excellent. Reserve on weekends.BEHIND CLOSED DOORS
A very popular Buenos Aires culinary offshoot in the last few years are ‘closed-door restaurants’, or puertas cerradas. These places are open only a few days per week, have timed seatings and are generally prix fixe (and mostly cash only). They’re not marked with signs and you have to ring a bell to enter. They won’t even tell you the address until you make reservations (mandatory, of course). But for that tingly feeling brought on by discovering something off the beaten path – with some of the city’s best food to boot – these places are for you.
There are two kinds of puertas cerradas: the first is where you dine in the chef’s actual home, and usually sit at a large communal table. This is a great way to meet other people, often interesting travelers or expats; it’s ideal for folks traveling alone. The second kind has more of a restaurant feel and tables are for separate groups – just like a regular restaurant, but not open to walk-ins. Many puertas cerradas are located in Palermo.
Some of BA’s best puertas cerradas include iLatina(www.ilatinabuenosaires.com/en), serving exquisite Colombian food; Casa Saltshaker(www.casasaltshaker.com), where you’ll sample ex–New Yorker Dan Perlman’s culinary creations; NOLA(www.nolabuenosaires.com), home to New Orleans–fusion dishes; Casa Felix(www.colectivofelix.com/casa-felix), a pescatarian’s delight; and Cocina Sunae(www.cocinasunae.com), for near-authentic Asian-fusion
Palermo Viejo, a large sub-neighborhood of Palermo, is a fashionista’s shopping paradise. A few years ago, most of the storefronts were showcases for cutting-edge clothes; these days, the barrio hosts a wider range of designers selling high-end wares from home accessories and books to fancy stationery, soaps, candles, souvenirs, kids’ toys and gourmet chocolate. It’s easy to spend hours or even days shopping in Palermo; many design-minded travelers consider an afternoon here part of the sightseeing circuit.
SHOPPING
MAP GOOGLE MAP SHOPPING
(Plaza Serrano; 10am-8pm Fri-Sun) Costume jewelry, hand-knit tops, funky clothes, hippie bags, glass jewelry, leather accessories and much more fill the craft booths at this popular street fair on fashionable Plaza Serrano (also known as Plaza Cortazar). It’s not huge, but the plaza is in the middle of Palermo’s bustling nightlife and surrounded by trendy bars, restaurants and upscale stores.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 10am-8pm Fri-Sun) Costume jewelry, hand-knit tops, funky clothes, hippie bags, glass jewelry, leather accessories and much more fill the craft booths at this popular street fair on fashionable Plaza Serrano (also known as Plaza Cortazar). It’s not huge, but the plaza is in the middle of Palermo’s bustling nightlife and surrounded by trendy bars, restaurants and upscale stores.
( 4831-6333; www.rapsodia.com; Honduras 4872; 10am-9pm) With fabrics from linen to leather and details like fringe and sequins, this large and popular boutique is a must for fashion mavens. Old and new are blended into creative, colorful styles with exotic and bohemian accents. Locals covet its dresses and jeans; over a dozen branches in the city.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4831-6333; www.rapsodia.com; Honduras 4872; 10am-9pm) With fabrics from linen to leather and details like fringe and sequins, this large and popular boutique is a must for fashion mavens. Old and new are blended into creative, colorful styles with exotic and bohemian accents. Locals covet its dresses and jeans; over a dozen branches in the city.
( 4832-6284; Gurruchaga 1581; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm Sun) There’s almost nothing here that your young, hip and possibly gay brother wouldn’t love, from the stylish plaid shirts to the skin-tight jeans to the military-styled jackets. Metrosexual to the hilt, and paradise for the man who isn’t afraid of patterns, plaid or pastels. Also at Nicaragua 4906.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4832-6284; Gurruchaga 1581; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm Sun) There’s almost nothing here that your young, hip and possibly gay brother wouldn’t love, from the stylish plaid shirts to the skin-tight jeans to the military-styled jackets. Metrosexual to the hilt, and paradise for the man who isn’t afraid of patterns, plaid or pastels. Also at Nicaragua 4906.
( 4832-5329; www.lodejoaquinalberdi.com; JL Borges 1772; 11am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-9:30pm Sun) Nationally produced wines for every taste and budget line the racks and cellar of this attractive wine shop. Tastings happen Thursdays and Fridays at 7:30pm (double-check ahead of time) and include four wines and some cheeses; the cost is AR$100.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4832-5329; www.lodejoaquinalberdi.com; JL Borges 1772; 11am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-9:30pm Sun) Nationally produced wines for every taste and budget line the racks and cellar of this attractive wine shop. Tastings happen Thursdays and Fridays at 7:30pm (double-check ahead of time) and include four wines and some cheeses; the cost is AR$100.
( 4772-2145; www.hermanosestebecorena.com; El Salvador 5960; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) The Estebecorena brothers apply their highly creative skills toward smartly designed tops, jackets that fold into bags, polo-collar work shirts and even supremely comfortable, nearly seamless underwear. The focus is on original, highly stylish, very functional men’s clothing that makes the artsy types swoon. Selection is limited, but what’s there really counts.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4772-2145; www.hermanosestebecorena.com; El Salvador 5960; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) The Estebecorena brothers apply their highly creative skills toward smartly designed tops, jackets that fold into bags, polo-collar work shirts and even supremely comfortable, nearly seamless underwear. The focus is on original, highly stylish, very functional men’s clothing that makes the artsy types swoon. Selection is limited, but what’s there really counts.
( 4831-8558; Armenia 1609; 11am-8pm) Attracting crowds of gossipy ladies on a busy weekend, this boutique is stuffed with bright and colorful accessories like costume jewelry, pillows, scarves, belts, perfumes, hats and lots of handbags. Frilly, glitzy and designed for self-assured women.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4831-8558; Armenia 1609; 11am-8pm) Attracting crowds of gossipy ladies on a busy weekend, this boutique is stuffed with bright and colorful accessories like costume jewelry, pillows, scarves, belts, perfumes, hats and lots of handbags. Frilly, glitzy and designed for self-assured women.
( 4831-1818; www.calmachicha.com; Honduras 4909; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, 1-7pm Sun) Calma Chicha specializes in creative housewares and accessories that are locally produced from leather, faux leather, sheepskin, cowhide, and brightly hued fabric. Look for butterfly chairs, throw rugs, leather placemats, bright pillows and cowskin bags.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4831-1818; www.calmachicha.com; Honduras 4909; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, 1-7pm Sun) Calma Chicha specializes in creative housewares and accessories that are locally produced from leather, faux leather, sheepskin, cowhide, and brightly hued fabric. Look for butterfly chairs, throw rugs, leather placemats, bright pillows and cowskin bags.
( 4833-1621; www.juanadearco.net; El Salvador 4762; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, 1-8pm Sun) Mariana Cortes has designed adorable bits of fabrics sewn into girly sets that would be best showcased during a pillow fight – think brightly colored T-shirts, flowery boxer shorts and tight leggings. Descend the staircase to discover more treasures.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4833-1621; www.juanadearco.net; El Salvador 4762; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, 1-8pm Sun) Mariana Cortes has designed adorable bits of fabrics sewn into girly sets that would be best showcased during a pillow fight – think brightly colored T-shirts, flowery boxer shorts and tight leggings. Descend the staircase to discover more treasures.
( 4776-7288; www.nobrand.com.ar; Gorriti 5876; noon-8pm Tue-Sun) For that modern, locally inspired gift, check out this slick shop. Two designers created Argentine logos such as the cow, mate, asado, empanadas and tango (along with people like Evita and Che Guevara), and transferred those iconic logos onto T-shirts, aprons, mugs, notebooks, caps and even shoes. Fun gifts for folks back home.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4776-7288; www.nobrand.com.ar; Gorriti 5876; noon-8pm Tue-Sun) For that modern, locally inspired gift, check out this slick shop. Two designers created Argentine logos such as the cow, mate, asado, empanadas and tango (along with people like Evita and Che Guevara), and transferred those iconic logos onto T-shirts, aprons, mugs, notebooks, caps and even shoes. Fun gifts for folks back home.
( 4834-6555; www.capitalpalermo.com; Honduras 4958; 10am-8pm) There’s nothing you really need at this whimsical knickknacks store, but it’s a fun place to visit anyhow. The stock is always changing, but expect things like mugs with iconic images, funky computer accessories and cartoonish shower curtains.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4834-6555; www.capitalpalermo.com; Honduras 4958; 10am-8pm) There’s nothing you really need at this whimsical knickknacks store, but it’s a fun place to visit anyhow. The stock is always changing, but expect things like mugs with iconic images, funky computer accessories and cartoonish shower curtains.
( 4832-2662; www.humawaca.com; El Salvador 4692; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 2-7pm Sun) Award-winning designs bring both form and functionality to Argentine leather, producing handbags, tote bags and wallets with clean modernist lines and colorful hues. Visit this tiny boutique and you’ll always find something different and eye-catching.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4832-2662; www.humawaca.com; El Salvador 4692; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 2-7pm Sun) Award-winning designs bring both form and functionality to Argentine leather, producing handbags, tote bags and wallets with clean modernist lines and colorful hues. Visit this tiny boutique and you’ll always find something different and eye-catching.
( 4833-4287; www.28sport.com; Gurruchaga 1481; 11am-1:30pm, 2:30-7pm Mon-Sat) For the retro-sports fanatic, there’s nothing better than this unique shop with a sense of humor and a vintage twist. Focusing on only one product and one style – men’s ‘50s sport-style shoes – the cobblers here can concentrate on quality and craftsmanship. Inspiration comes from football, boxing and bowling shoes, and only 12 pairs of each design are produced.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4833-4287; www.28sport.com; Gurruchaga 1481; 11am-1:30pm, 2:30-7pm Mon-Sat) For the retro-sports fanatic, there’s nothing better than this unique shop with a sense of humor and a vintage twist. Focusing on only one product and one style – men’s ‘50s sport-style shoes – the cobblers here can concentrate on quality and craftsmanship. Inspiration comes from football, boxing and bowling shoes, and only 12 pairs of each design are produced.
( 4833-5655; www.mishkashoes.com.ar; El Salvador 4673; 10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm Sun) Well-regarded designer Chelo Cantón was once an architect but now creates wonderfully unique footwear with a retro-hip, feminine and slightly conservative vibe. Try on a pair of patent-leather sandals for size, or go for more traditional ballet flats in velvet and brocade (though styles are always changing). Check the website for other locations around the city.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4833-5655; www.mishkashoes.com.ar; El Salvador 4673; 10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm Sun) Well-regarded designer Chelo Cantón was once an architect but now creates wonderfully unique footwear with a retro-hip, feminine and slightly conservative vibe. Try on a pair of patent-leather sandals for size, or go for more traditional ballet flats in velvet and brocade (though styles are always changing). Check the website for other locations around the city.
( 2058-7810; Malabia 1635; 11am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 2-7:30pm Sun) Can’t make it all the way down to Patagonia? Well, then just visit to this small store to grab a southern souvenir. There are woolen goods (sheep are big down there), hand-made ceramics, wooden utensils and silver and alpaca jewelry. All products are made by Patagonian craftspeople.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 2058-7810; Malabia 1635; 11am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 2-7:30pm Sun) Can’t make it all the way down to Patagonia? Well, then just visit to this small store to grab a southern souvenir. There are woolen goods (sheep are big down there), hand-made ceramics, wooden utensils and silver and alpaca jewelry. All products are made by Patagonian craftspeople.
( 4777-5423; www.sugarandspice.com.ar; Guatemala 5419; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Nibble the exotic (for Argentina, at least) creations of Frank Almeida, a long-time American expat. Herb cookies, almond biscotti, hazelnut panettone and peanut-butter brownies soothe homesick taste buds, and daily-baked bagels, muffins and scones are also available.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4777-5423; www.sugarandspice.com.ar; Guatemala 5419; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Nibble the exotic (for Argentina, at least) creations of Frank Almeida, a long-time American expat. Herb cookies, almond biscotti, hazelnut panettone and peanut-butter brownies soothe homesick taste buds, and daily-baked bagels, muffins and scones are also available.
( 4865-0143; www.centricocentrica.com.ar; Figueroa 1800; 10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat) Leonardo Mancuso designs these handmade leather shoes with a classic, traditional styling that emphasizes simplicity over showiness. Both men’s and women’s shoes available, and some have unisex looks; there are also a few ankle and knee-high boots. Prices run from AR$1000, but check out the sale items in the back room.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 4865-0143; www.centricocentrica.com.ar; Figueroa 1800; 10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat) Leonardo Mancuso designs these handmade leather shoes with a classic, traditional styling that emphasizes simplicity over showiness. Both men’s and women’s shoes available, and some have unisex looks; there are also a few ankle and knee-high boots. Prices run from AR$1000, but check out the sale items in the back room.
(www.pnrm.com.ar; República de la India 2905; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) About 20 emerging young designers are showcased at this small, upscale store in Palermo Chico. Peruse the clothing racks for one-of-a-kind, eclectic tops, pants, dresses and coats that can be definite show-stoppers. Small sizes dominate, though custom orders are possible. There are also a few accessories and shoes.
MAP GOOGLE MAP 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) About 20 emerging young designers are showcased at this small, upscale store in Palermo Chico. Peruse the clothing racks for one-of-a-kind, eclectic tops, pants, dresses and coats that can be definite show-stoppers. Small sizes dominate, though custom orders are possible. There are also a few accessories and shoes.
( 5777-8000; www.altopalermo.com.ar; Av Santa Fe 3253; 10am-10pm) Smack on bustling Av Santa Fe, this popular, shiny mall offers dozens of clothing shops, bookstores, jewelry boutiques, and electronics and houseware stores. Look for Timberland, Lacoste, Hilfiger and Levi’s (plus many Argentine brands, too). Services include a food court, a cinema complex and a good kids’ area on the 3rd floor.
5777-8000; www.altopalermo.com.ar; Av Santa Fe 3253; 10am-10pm) Smack on bustling Av Santa Fe, this popular, shiny mall offers dozens of clothing shops, bookstores, jewelry boutiques, and electronics and houseware stores. Look for Timberland, Lacoste, Hilfiger and Levi’s (plus many Argentine brands, too). Services include a food court, a cinema complex and a good kids’ area on the 3rd floor.
( 5777-6500; www.paseoalcorta.com.ar; Salguero 3172; 10am-10pm) One of the largest and most upscale malls in the city. All the popular Argentine women’s clothing shops are represented, as are international boutiques such as Adidas, Nike and Swatch. Other stores sell leather goods, kids’ clothes, men’s designs, sportswear and accessories. There’s also a large food court and a children’s play area.
5777-6500; www.paseoalcorta.com.ar; Salguero 3172; 10am-10pm) One of the largest and most upscale malls in the city. All the popular Argentine women’s clothing shops are represented, as are international boutiques such as Adidas, Nike and Swatch. Other stores sell leather goods, kids’ clothes, men’s designs, sportswear and accessories. There’s also a large food court and a children’s play area.
( 4822-9433; Santa Fe 2729; 2-8pm Mon-Sat) Wonderful little shopping mall with funky, casual and very artsy vibe. In the past few years, young struggling artists have taken over and created an artistic hub here, filling it with various small stores, exhibition spaces and workshops. You’ll find a couple of book shops, a record store and some design stores. For refreshment there’s a small cafe called Baby Snakes.
4822-9433; Santa Fe 2729; 2-8pm Mon-Sat) Wonderful little shopping mall with funky, casual and very artsy vibe. In the past few years, young struggling artists have taken over and created an artistic hub here, filling it with various small stores, exhibition spaces and workshops. You’ll find a couple of book shops, a record store and some design stores. For refreshment there’s a small cafe called Baby Snakes.
( 4483-6637; www.librosdelpasaje.com.ar; Thames 1762; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun) This cool literary sanctuary offers history, culture and art books. They’re mostly in Spanish, but look for the small English section near the front door (with some Lonely Planet books). There’s a cute cafe in back, with small inside patio, for a snack or cup of coffee.
4483-6637; www.librosdelpasaje.com.ar; Thames 1762; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun) This cool literary sanctuary offers history, culture and art books. They’re mostly in Spanish, but look for the small English section near the front door (with some Lonely Planet books). There’s a cute cafe in back, with small inside patio, for a snack or cup of coffee.
( 4833-3081; www.papelerapalermo.com; Cabrera 5227; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat) Everyone emails these days, but step into this stationery store and you’ll be tempted to start penning letters again. A large selection of gorgeous wrapping papers, handmade stationery and funky spiral notebooks (look for the Evita motif) all inspire.
4833-3081; www.papelerapalermo.com; Cabrera 5227; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat) Everyone emails these days, but step into this stationery store and you’ll be tempted to start penning letters again. A large selection of gorgeous wrapping papers, handmade stationery and funky spiral notebooks (look for the Evita motif) all inspire.
( 4832-3339; www.elcid.us; Gurruchaga 1732; 11am-8pm Tue-Sat, 3-7pm Sun) Some of the finest men’s threads can be found at this Palermo Viejo boutique, which highlights Nestor Goldberg’s designer shirts, pants, jackets, accessories and jeans. Materials are of the highest quality, and tailoring is classy, hip and casual.
4832-3339; www.elcid.us; Gurruchaga 1732; 11am-8pm Tue-Sat, 3-7pm Sun) Some of the finest men’s threads can be found at this Palermo Viejo boutique, which highlights Nestor Goldberg’s designer shirts, pants, jackets, accessories and jeans. Materials are of the highest quality, and tailoring is classy, hip and casual.
( 4832-0516; www.monteargentino.com; El Salvador 4656; 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) Bright and beautiful woven mantas (blankets) from Santiago del Estero are the main attraction at this upscale shop, located in an old house. All are made from wool and natural dyes, and can also be used as light rugs. Expect to pay from AR$2500 up.
4832-0516; www.monteargentino.com; El Salvador 4656; 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) Bright and beautiful woven mantas (blankets) from Santiago del Estero are the main attraction at this upscale shop, located in an old house. All are made from wool and natural dyes, and can also be used as light rugs. Expect to pay from AR$2500 up.
(cnr Álvarez Thomas & Dorrego; 11am-7pm Tue-Sun) This large, covered warehouse is full of caged booths selling antiques, vintage objects and some modern items – precious things such as wood furniture, glass soda bottles, chandeliers, old clocks, silver trays, bird cages, elegant mirrors and ironwork.
11am-7pm Tue-Sun) This large, covered warehouse is full of caged booths selling antiques, vintage objects and some modern items – precious things such as wood furniture, glass soda bottles, chandeliers, old clocks, silver trays, bird cages, elegant mirrors and ironwork.BUENOS AIRES’ EMERGING DESIGNERS
One of the most notable transitions in Buenos Aires fashion in the last few years is the growing prominence of emerging designers. Based mostly out of private homes and apartments, known locally as ‘showrooms,’ a young community of recent fashion school grads and 20-somethings with an entrepreneurial spirit are taking over BA’s inventive design world. Recent initiatives by the Buenos Aires City government such as competitions like IncuBA and La Ciudad de Moda (which allowed several of the most promising emerging designers to stage runway shows at Buenos Aires Fashion Week), have given the industry the boost it desperately needs to make BA one of the most intriguing fashion hotspots in Latin America. Whether you’re on the hunt for casual streetwear, luxurious leather or innovative jewelry design, BA’s best emerging designers take pride in their originality and skilled craftsmanship.
When it comes to clothing design, rising names like Belén Amigo(www.belenamigo.com.ar) and Joan Martorello(www.facebook.com/JMARTORELLO), both present at La Ciudad de Moda’s runway show, are capturing stylish locals with their alternative, street-chic designs that range from Martorello’s signature knits to Amigo’s tailored pants and drapey silk organza tops. For more comfy casual wear, stop in at Deleon’s(www.deleonba.com) Palermo Hollywood showroom, a destination for young fashionable locals looking to expand their collection of urban cool garments that scream sophistication.
Yet another exciting fresh face in BA’s emerging fashion scene is Julia Schang-Viton(www.schangviton.com.ar), a young design prodigy whose structured, architectural cuts and neutral color palette draw upon her Asian heritage.
If you’re in the market for leather, you’ve come to the right city. The independent design team behind artsy leather jacket label Oveja Oveja(www.ovejaoveja.com) have created a stir with their high-quality, hand-painted jackets that fit perfectly with BA’s cosmopolitan vibe.
For leather bags, don’t miss the geometric gems by Bellebas(www.bellebas.com), whose sleek clutches and embossed satchels make for the quintessential Buenos Aires accessory.
In the world of jewelry, both Inés Bonadeo(www.inesbonadeo.com.ar), a metal-working craftswoman who has already shown her work in New York at the international design fair NY Now, and Vendaval(www.vendavalbuenosaires.com.ar), whose amulets are available at indie boutique Monoambiente(www.mono-ambiente.com.ar) can’t be missed.
While popular among locals, shopping in showrooms can prove intimidating for visitors. To gain access to these hidden treasures, it takes some local knowledge and the right connections. Thankfully, a few ambitious expats are giving tourists the chance to discover the exciting world of BA’s emerging design through personalized shopping tours that’ll take you to some of the most notable showrooms in town as well as the hippest open-door boutiques. Sophie Lloyd at ShopHopBA(www.shop-buenosaires.com) is the perfect option for those looking to get inside the city’s exclusive showrooms. Warm, welcoming and knowledgeable, Sophie’s tours include champagne toasts and privately catered lunches, and she also offers personal color consultations to those in need of a wardrobe makeover. Vanessa Bell at Creme de la Creme(www.cremedelacreme.com.ar) is known for her extensive contacts and excellent taste.
Natalie Schreyer is a fashion writer who has been living in Buenos Aires for five years. She is the creator of www.bashopgirl.com, a fashion blog covering BA’s best emerging designers. In addition to her blog, she has written for LandingPadBA.com.
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