Neighborhood Top Five
Wandering the elegant sarcophagi in Cementerio de la Recoleta, an astonishing necropolis where, in death as in life, generations of the Argentine elite rest in ornate splendor.
Relaxing on the sunny patio of one of the many 
Finding that perfect hand-made souvenir in one of the dozens of stalls at Feria Plaza Francia.
Seeking out the beautiful European impressionistic artwork at Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.
Getting a close-up look at Floralis Genérica, an interesting giant metal flower sculpture.
( 
4806-2209; Junín 1904; museum AR$6; 
10, 17, 60, 92, 110) Yes, that’s a pair of skulls on your right as you enter the basilica. But the centerpiece of this gleaming white colonial church, built by Jesuits in 1716, is a Peruvian altar adorned with silver from Argentina’s northwest. Inside, head to the left to visit the small but historic cloisters museum(
10:30am-6:15pm Mon-Sat, 2:30-6:15pm Sun); it’s home to religious vestments, paintings, writings and interesting artifacts. You can also snap a photo of the Recoleta cemetery through the window grilles.
4806-2209; Junín 1904; museum AR$6; 10, 17, 60, 92, 110) Yes, that’s a pair of skulls on your right as you enter the basilica. But the centerpiece of this gleaming white colonial church, built by Jesuits in 1716, is a Peruvian altar adorned with silver from Argentina’s northwest. Inside, head to the left to visit the small but historic cloisters museum(10:30am-6:15pm Mon-Sat, 2:30-6:15pm Sun); it’s home to religious vestments, paintings, writings and interesting artifacts. You can also snap a photo of the Recoleta cemetery through the window grilles.
( 4803-1040; www.centroculturalrecoleta.org; Junín 1930; 59) Part of the original Franciscan convent and alongside its namesake church and cemetery, this renovated cultural center houses a variety of facilities, including art galleries, exhibition halls and a cinema. Events, courses and workshops are also offered, and its Museo Participativo de CienciasMAPGOOGLE MAP(4806-3456; www.mpc.org.ar; Junín 1930; admission AR$40;vary widely, see website) is a children’s hands-on science museum.
4803-1040; www.centroculturalrecoleta.org; Junín 1930; 59) Part of the original Franciscan convent and alongside its namesake church and cemetery, this renovated cultural center houses a variety of facilities, including art galleries, exhibition halls and a cinema. Events, courses and workshops are also offered, and its Museo Participativo de CienciasMAPGOOGLE MAP(4806-3456; www.mpc.org.ar; Junín 1930; admission AR$40;vary widely, see website) is a children’s hands-on science museum.
( 5288-9945; www.mnba.org.ar; Av del Libertador 1473; 12:30-8:30pm Tue-Fri, 9:30am-8:30pm Sat & Sun) F This is Argentina’s most important national arts museum and contains many key works by Benito Quinquela Martín, Xul Solar, Edwardo Sívori and other Argentine artists of the 19th and 20th centuries. There are also impressive international works by European masters such as Cézanne, Degas, Picasso, Rembrandt, Toulouse-Lautrec and Van Gogh. Everything is well displayed, and there’s also a cinema, concerts and classes. The museum’s peaceful interior is a welcome respite from the busy avenue outside. Call in advance for tours in English.
5288-9945; www.mnba.org.ar; Av del Libertador 1473; 12:30-8:30pm Tue-Fri, 9:30am-8:30pm Sat & Sun) F This is Argentina’s most important national arts museum and contains many key works by Benito Quinquela Martín, Xul Solar, Edwardo Sívori and other Argentine artists of the 19th and 20th centuries. There are also impressive international works by European masters such as Cézanne, Degas, Picasso, Rembrandt, Toulouse-Lautrec and Van Gogh. Everything is well displayed, and there’s also a cinema, concerts and classes. The museum’s peaceful interior is a welcome respite from the busy avenue outside. Call in advance for tours in English.
The museum’s building is a former pump house for the city waterworks, and was designed by architect Julio Dormala. It was later modified by Alejandro Bustillo, famous for his alpine-style civic center in the northern Patagonian city of Bariloche.
(cnr Av Figueroa Alcorta & Bibiloni) This gargantuan solar-powered flower sculpture, located smack in the center of Plaza Naciones Unidas is the inspired creation of architect Eduardo Catalano, who designed and funded the project in 2002. The giant aluminum and steel petals are 20m high and used to close like a real flower, from dusk until dawn – until the gears broke, that is.
( 4804-1163; www.palaisdeglace.gov.ar; Posadas 1725; noon-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; 17, 62, 67) F Housed in an unusual circular building that was once an ice-skating rink and a tango hall (happily not at once, however!), the spacious Palais de Glace now offers a variety of rotating cultural, artistic and historical exhibitions. Be sure to check out the 2nd floor, worth a peep for its interesting ceiling and other architectural details. Musical concerts are also occasionally hosted here.
4804-1163; www.palaisdeglace.gov.ar; Posadas 1725; noon-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; 17, 62, 67) F Housed in an unusual circular building that was once an ice-skating rink and a tango hall (happily not at once, however!), the spacious Palais de Glace now offers a variety of rotating cultural, artistic and historical exhibitions. Be sure to check out the 2nd floor, worth a peep for its interesting ceiling and other architectural details. Musical concerts are also occasionally hosted here.
(Engineering School; cnr General Las Heras & Azcuénaga) This beautiful but decrepit neo-Gothic building (1912) was designed by Uruguayan architect Arturo Prins and never quite completed. It’s currently being given a face-lift.
GLORIOUS DEATH IN BUENOS AIRES
Only in Buenos Aires can the wealthy and powerful elite keep their status after death. When decades of dining on rich food and drink have taken their toll, Buenos Aires’ finest move ceremoniously across the street to the Cementerio de la Recoleta (Click here), joining their ancestors in a place they have religiously visited all their lives.
Argentines are a strange bunch who tend to celebrate their most honored national figures not on the date of their birth, but on the date of their death (after all, they’re nobody when they’re born). Nowhere is this obsession with mortality more evident than at Recoleta, where generations of the elite repose in the grandeur of ostentatious mausoleums. Real estate here is among Buenos Aires’ priciest: there’s a saying that goes, ‘It is cheaper to live extravagantly all your life than to be buried in Recoleta.’
It’s not just being rich that gets you a prime resting spot here: your name matters. Those lucky few with surnames like Alvear, Anchorena, Mitre or Sarmiento are pretty much guaranteed to be laid down. Evita’s remains are here (in the Familia Duarte sarcophagus), but her lack of aristocracy and the fact that she dedicated her life not to BA’s rich but rather to its poor infuriated the bigwigs.
A larger and much less touristy graveyard is Cementerio de la Chacarita, located in the neighborhood of Chacarita. The cemetery opened in the 1870s to accommodate the yellow-fever victims of San Telmo and La Boca. Although much more democratic and modest, Chacarita’s most elaborate tombs match Recoleta’s finest. One of the most visited belongs to Carlos Gardel, the famous tango singer. Plaques from around the world cover the base of his life-size statue, many thanking him for favors granted. Like Evita, Juan Perón and others, Gardel is a quasi saint toward whom countless Argentines feel an almost religious devotion. The anniversaries of Gardel’s birth and death days see thousands of pilgrims jamming the cemetery’s streets.
Another spiritual personality in Chacarita is Madre María Salomé, a disciple of the famous healer Pancho Sierra. Every day, but especially on the second day of each month (she died on October 2, 1928), adherents of her cult cover her tomb with white carnations. To visit Chacarita, take Línea B of the Subte to the end of the line at Federico Lacroze and cross the street.
COMO EN CASA ARGENTINE$MAP GOOGLE MAP
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( 4816-5507; www.tortascomoencasa.com; Riobamba 1239; lunch mains AR$45-70; 8am-midnight Tue-Sat, 8am-8:30pm Sun & Mon) This gorgeous, upscale cafe-restaurant has a very elegant atmosphere and attracts Recoleta’s wealthiest. Its best feature is the shady patio, complete with large fountain and surrounded by grand buildings, a must on a warm day. For lunch there are fancy sandwiches, salads, wraps and stir-fries, while dinner options include goulash, shrimp ragout and spinach gnocchi. Plenty of luscious desserts, plus breakfast too.
4816-5507; www.tortascomoencasa.com; Riobamba 1239; lunch mains AR$45-70; 8am-midnight Tue-Sat, 8am-8:30pm Sun & Mon) This gorgeous, upscale cafe-restaurant has a very elegant atmosphere and attracts Recoleta’s wealthiest. Its best feature is the shady patio, complete with large fountain and surrounded by grand buildings, a must on a warm day. For lunch there are fancy sandwiches, salads, wraps and stir-fries, while dinner options include goulash, shrimp ragout and spinach gnocchi. Plenty of luscious desserts, plus breakfast too.
RODI BAR ARGENTINE$MAP GOOGLE MAP
( 4801-5230; Vicente López 1900; mains AR$50-90; 7am-1am) A great option for well-priced, unpretentious food in upscale Recoleta. This traditional corner restaurant with fine old-world atmosphere and extensive menu offers something for everyone, from inexpensive combo plates to relatively unusual dishes such as marinated beef tongue
4801-5230; Vicente López 1900; mains AR$50-90; 7am-1am) A great option for well-priced, unpretentious food in upscale Recoleta. This traditional corner restaurant with fine old-world atmosphere and extensive menu offers something for everyone, from inexpensive combo plates to relatively unusual dishes such as marinated beef tongue
( 4822-1228; www.natural-deli.com; Laprida 1672; mains AR$50-72; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 9am-midnight Sun; 
) Modern, organic cafe offering fresh dishes with a natural bent. Choose from creative gourmet Choose from creative gourmet sandwiches and wraps, fresh salads or stir fries. There are also fresh juices and licuados (blended fruit smoothies), plus many organic gourmet products are sold. Great for breakfast; muffins, scones, brownies and even key lime pie available. Also in Las Cañitas, Palermo(4514-1776; Gorostiaga 1776;8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 9am-midnight Sun).
4822-1228; www.natural-deli.com; Laprida 1672; mains AR$50-72; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 9am-midnight Sun; ) Modern, organic cafe offering fresh dishes with a natural bent. Choose from creative gourmet Choose from creative gourmet sandwiches and wraps, fresh salads or stir fries. There are also fresh juices and licuados (blended fruit smoothies), plus many organic gourmet products are sold. Great for breakfast; muffins, scones, brownies and even key lime pie available. Also in Las Cañitas, Palermo(4514-1776; Gorostiaga 1776;8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 9am-midnight Sun).
( 4805-0616; www.teaconnection.com.ar; Uriburu 1595; mains AR$60-75; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 9am-midnight Sun) At this sleek corner cafe, choose from over 20 types of black, red and green teas and health-conscious sandwiches, salads, vegetable tarts and pastries. Drinks include fruit juices and licuados. Other nearby locations include at Arenales 2102 and Montevideo 1655.
4805-0616; www.teaconnection.com.ar; Uriburu 1595; mains AR$60-75; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 9am-midnight Sun) At this sleek corner cafe, choose from over 20 types of black, red and green teas and health-conscious sandwiches, salads, vegetable tarts and pastries. Drinks include fruit juices and licuados. Other nearby locations include at Arenales 2102 and Montevideo 1655.
( 4813-9207; Rodriguez Peña 1149; mains AR$40-50; noon-4pm & 8pm-1am) To sample Argentina’s regional cuisine, check out this colorful, budget-friendly eatery with huge picture windows and an old-fashioned adobe oven. Cumaná specializes in delicious cazuela, stick-to-your-ribs stews filled with squash, corn, eggplant, potatoes and meat. Also popular are the empanadas,locro and humita (corn, cheese and onion tamales). Come early to avoid a wait.
4813-9207; Rodriguez Peña 1149; mains AR$40-50; noon-4pm & 8pm-1am) To sample Argentina’s regional cuisine, check out this colorful, budget-friendly eatery with huge picture windows and an old-fashioned adobe oven. Cumaná specializes in delicious cazuela, stick-to-your-ribs stews filled with squash, corn, eggplant, potatoes and meat. Also popular are the empanadas,locro and humita (corn, cheese and onion tamales). Come early to avoid a wait.
( 4805-2683; Posadas 1515; empanadas AR$13, mains AR$40-70; noon-4pm & 7pm-1am) This long-running, cozy little joint probably has the cheapest food in Recoleta, attracting both penny-pinching locals and thrifty tourists. Sit either upstairs or downstairs (in the basement) and order spicy empanadas, tamales or locro (corn and meat stew). The curved brick ceiling adds to the atmosphere, but many take their food to go – Recoleta’s lovely parks are just a couple of blocks away
4805-2683; Posadas 1515; empanadas AR$13, mains AR$40-70; noon-4pm & 7pm-1am) This long-running, cozy little joint probably has the cheapest food in Recoleta, attracting both penny-pinching locals and thrifty tourists. Sit either upstairs or downstairs (in the basement) and order spicy empanadas, tamales or locro (corn and meat stew). The curved brick ceiling adds to the atmosphere, but many take their food to go – Recoleta’s lovely parks are just a couple of blocks away
SHOPPING
Exclusivity is the key word here. If you have the bucks and are willing to pay top dollar for the best quality goods, then you’ll want to shop in these neighborhoods. The city’s best leather shops are based here, along with a few top fashion boutiques. Av Santa Fe is a catch-all for fashion, housewares and everything in-between.
(www.feriaplazafrancia.com; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Located right in front of Recoleta’s cemetery, in Plaza Intendente Alvear, this large and popular street fair features hundreds of booths selling leather accessories, bronze jewelry, fused glass, ceramic mugs, woven hats and kitschy souvenirs – essentially dozens of handmade crafts of all kinds. Hippies gather, bakers circulate their pastries and mimes perform (or just stand very still). The website gives a great overview of what’s available.
11am-8pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Located right in front of Recoleta’s cemetery, in Plaza Intendente Alvear, this large and popular street fair features hundreds of booths selling leather accessories, bronze jewelry, fused glass, ceramic mugs, woven hats and kitschy souvenirs – essentially dozens of handmade crafts of all kinds. Hippies gather, bakers circulate their pastries and mimes perform (or just stand very still). The website gives a great overview of what’s available.
( 5777-6000; Av Pueyrredón 2501; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun) The trendiest and finest home furnishings are all under one roof here. This is the ideal place to look for that snazzy light fixture, streamlined toilet or reproduction Asian chair. Also good for everyday appliances and housewares, along with cute decor and art objects.
5777-6000; Av Pueyrredón 2501; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun) The trendiest and finest home furnishings are all under one roof here. This is the ideal place to look for that snazzy light fixture, streamlined toilet or reproduction Asian chair. Also good for everyday appliances and housewares, along with cute decor and art objects.
( 4811-2444; Rodriguez Peña 1399; 10:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat) Writers and artists delight in the gorgeous handmade paper at this chic stationery shop. Leatherbound journals, monogrammed stationery, and oversized sketchbooks are made with recycled paper; come here for one-of-a-kind invitations and notecards or hand-painted wrapping paper to spruce up a special gift.
4811-2444; Rodriguez Peña 1399; 10:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat) Writers and artists delight in the gorgeous handmade paper at this chic stationery shop. Leatherbound journals, monogrammed stationery, and oversized sketchbooks are made with recycled paper; come here for one-of-a-kind invitations and notecards or hand-painted wrapping paper to spruce up a special gift.
( 4811-2619; Paraguay 1554; noon-8pm Mon-Fri) Excellent vintage clothing boutique. Find that special jacket, dress, shirt and bottom from the 1940s on up. All clothes are in great condition and sold at affordable prices. Some jewelry and other accessories are also for sale.
4811-2619; Paraguay 1554; noon-8pm Mon-Fri) Excellent vintage clothing boutique. Find that special jacket, dress, shirt and bottom from the 1940s on up. All clothes are in great condition and sold at affordable prices. Some jewelry and other accessories are also for sale.
(Av Santa Fe 1670; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat) For the edgiest tattoos and piercings in town, you can’t beat this grungy shopping center. Buenos Aires’ skateboarder-wannabes, along with their punk-rock counterparts, also come here to shop for the latest styles, sounds and bongs. Expect everything from Hello Kitty to heavy metal.
10am-9pm Mon-Sat) For the edgiest tattoos and piercings in town, you can’t beat this grungy shopping center. Buenos Aires’ skateboarder-wannabes, along with their punk-rock counterparts, also come here to shop for the latest styles, sounds and bongs. Expect everything from Hello Kitty to heavy metal.
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